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How-To: Dodge SRT-4 Stock Boost Gauge Replacement
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| Stage 0: Planning |
- Car = Dodge SRT-4 (thanks Chris L.!)
- Gauges = VEI Systems Bi-directional Vacuum-Boost Gauge.
- Parts required:
- VEI Vacuum-boost monitor with integrated sensor, V1-VBP-MB
- Wires, terminals, etc.
- Gauge mount = Stock gauge pod
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| Stage 1: Obtain access to gauge and pod |
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The stock boost gauge is on the right of the steering wheel in this photo. |
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Remove the A-pillar covers. |
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Remove the screws on both sides of the dash cover. |
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Lift carefully, disconnect any wiring connectors and the boost hose, then pull forward... simple! |
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Thru the windshield, you can see the stock vacuum hose. |
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| Stage 2: Mounting the gauge |
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With the dash cover upside down, remove the 2 phillips-head screws that secure the pod to the dash cover.
Access is easy by just moving the vacuum/boost hose to the side. |
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The stock gauge can be separated from the pod by removing the two lock nuts. |
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Remove the vacuum/boost hose from the barbed connector on the stock gauge. Rather than just pulling hard
on it, carefully pry/push it off with a small screwdriver or similar. |
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The VEI gauge is not a direct fit since the gauge is not as deep as the stock gauge, and the studs are a
little further inboard than the stock gauge. |
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This somewhat-cutaway drawing better explains the differences between the stock gauge and the VEI gauge.
The flat section on the pod with the holes for the stock studs will be called a "mid-plate"
for this installation article. |
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Another drawing explaining the differences. The gauge does not sit all the way on the pod (small gap
at "B"), because the stud just barely hit the mid plate at "A". This area
will need to be drilled open for the studs to clear. |
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Here you can see the holes have been slotted open towards the inside, to clear the studs on the VEI gauge. |
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Trial fitting the VEI gauge to ensure adequate clearance now. |
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This is the plan to secure the gauge, using what we had available. The clamp that comes with the
VEI gauge will be cut/modified to provide an attachment for one screw in the center. That
will be adequate for securing the gauge. The spacers are there just to allow clearance for
the screw heads. |
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We used 6-32 threaded hex spacers (a.k.a. standoffs) since we had them, but this could've been a couple 6-32 nuts.
Two on each side would've been sufficient. |
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The arms on the VEI clamp were cut off, the center drilled, and while at it, I made a small notch
to clear the vacuum port -- just in case. BTW, note that the center hole is drill a bit lower than
center, as the available area on the mid-plate of the stock pod is a bit off center. A 6-32 x 5/8"
screw and nut are attached and secured. |
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Everything put together. The vacuum/boost hose is secured with a wire tie. We normally recommend using
some type of rigid hose when going over 20-30 psi, bit the stock hose is semi-rigid already! |
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A matching hole was drilled in the mid-plate and the VEI gauge mounted in the pod. I highly recommend
securing all nuts with mild thread-locker, or nail polish (yes, it works well and costs less!) |
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| Stage 3: Wiring |
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There are only 3 wires to install, and no photos, but it's very simple. Connect a red wire from a proper
switched +12V source, which is easiest obtained from behind the fuse panel, or from the front of the
fuse panel using an Add-A-Circuit. (The fuse panel is on the driver's side of the dashboard, and accessible
when the driver's door is open). Connect a black wire to a proper ground source, such as the bolt just
behind the fuse panel. Finally connect a green wire to a headlight wire, either directly at the
headlight wiring, or from the headlight switch. The green wire is optional, but if unused, it's
better to connect it to ground, such as the case on the gauge.
On this car, the removeable dash panel makes for very easy routing from the gauge to the fuse panel.
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| Stage 4: Re-assembly |
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Mount the pod back onto the dash cover. |
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Connect the wires to the gauge. Using all 3 of your hands really makes this easy. :) Then position the
dash cover back in place. |
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We're done! |
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| A simpler option |
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The install above shows what we did (in about an hour and a quarter) using what we had available. Knowing
now what I do about the stock boost gauge install, here's what I would do next time, just to make it simpler...
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Here's a simpler plan -- re-drill the mid-plate as before, then use a pair of 6-32 barrel nuts to
secure the gauge. This drawing also shows some washers in place, and don't worry about the gap
from the slotted holes, since it's really only on one side of the washer -- it just looks
larger here. Now, it seems that 6-32 barrel nuts are not so easily available, but... |
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If you can't find a 6-32 barrel nut easily, it can be substituted. To prove the concept, I first made
one from a 6-32 x 3/4" threaded hex standoff, using a small lathe. Very simple, and works
beautifully. The stock standoff is in the upper left, the modified standoff in the upper right.
Later, I raided a local hardware store and found a 6-32 tee nut (lower left), and by simply removing
the prongs (twist off with a pair of needle nose pliers), it becomes the equivalent of a barrel nut.
The notches (where the prongs were) are great for gripping with a pair of needle-nose pliers to
tighten it down. |
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Here's on of each mounted to show how it would be used. Simpler! |
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Back to VEI Systems technical info...
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